The Grace Pullover

I am proud to present this post as part of a paid partnership with Knit Picks, a company I have patronized for many years and whose products and service I trust. All thoughts and opinions are my own, unedited and unaltered as always.

I’ve heard understated personal style described as “strength held in restraint”. It’s all about those still waters, that quiet confidence. It’s clean and warm. It’s panache without flash. It’s grace held in subtext.

I find understated simplicity with a bit of personality and interest a high standard of design to achieve.

The Grace Pullover by Denise Bayron of Bayron Handmade is a truly lovely example of well designed, well produced simplicity. First published in Issue 8 of Laine Magazine, a gorgeous Nordic knit and lifestyle publication, Denise Bayron describes The Grace Pullover as “a classic fashion staple that fits seamlessly into most wardrobes. The Grace Pullover features this classic approach but updates it with a modern silhouette. It includes a mock neck, dolman sleeves, and a semi-cropped boxy body.” My take is in concensus: this sweater has all the hallmarks of timeless design, with the unpretentious, unfussy, easy fit of a modern staple. Denise offers a variety of thoughtful designs in knitting and sewing, all with the same signature blend of classic simplicity and modern appeal. Her careful consideration of the makers and wearers of her garments and accessories is evident in the details: a wrap cardigan in adult and children’s sizes perfect for beginners, yet stylish and striking, an ingenious accessory that can be styled as a bandana, a hat, or a head wrap, a cropped cardigan made for literally everyone. Every design is layered with intention.

From a user experience perspective, the digital pattern for The Grace Pullover is impeccable. As a pattern designer myself, I often assess the layout and functionality as well as the aesthetic appeal of the style sheet of patterns I use. Sitting on the couch next to my husband, clicking through the pattern (which I purchased myself) for the first time, I literally let out a low whistle and said out loud, “Man, this is SLICK!” It feels like a mini fashion-zine, with beautiful photography, a distinct brand feel, and even styling ideas. The pattern itself is easy to read and follow and includes two links to brief video tutorials of the trickier parts of the pattern.

The pattern calls for Quince Puffin, a chunky weight American wool, which I have used myself in the design of the Ebb and Flow Pullover. This fiber is absolutely lovely, with a great spring and loft, but I knew I wanted to make a warmer weather version of The Grace Pullover.

I was thrilled to partner with Knit Picks to use their uniquely soft and light bulky weight yarn Billow to make a lighter, more spring and summer friendly version of Denise’s design.

I have used Billow before, several years ago, when I tried the Turmeric color way to make a children’s sized poncho. It is a yarn I remembered clearly, eight plies of the softest pima cotton with an incredible thick-and-thin texture that makes for a fabric that feels just a little bit rustic. I had a gut feeling this would be the perfect cotton substitute for this piece. The colors available in this yarn are some of my very favorites, being a thoroughly modern blend of earthy and vibrant. I almost chose Comfrey or Ice Lily, but in the end, I couldn't resist the pale, neutral jade green of Celedon. It’s kind of the color of my soul ;). The soft purples will have to wait for another day, but I’ll likely be back for more Billow in the future.

Substituting in any yarn when working a new pattern is a bit of a gamble, and substituting in a yarn in a different fiber and texture is a slightly bigger gamble. Getting this substitution right is all about gauge. I worked three different gauge swatches, switching up my needle size and noting differences in the width and length of my swatch before beginning the actual garment. Gauge swatches are not the most glamorous part of knitting, but they are probably one of the most important parts. In the end, I chose to go down one needle size than that suggested in the pattern. (Fun side note: the needles Denise suggests in her pattern are the same interchangeable set I already use and love! They are beautifully crafted and easy on the eyes!)

The gauge swatch I used as a guide for the garment had the perfect width, but it was significantly longer than the pattern called for. This is where my own design experience helps me. Making those kinds of adjustments might require some basic understanding of the garment structure and how gauge works to inform that structure. Based on my preview of the pattern, I knew that if I could get the width right, I could pretty easily adjust the length by foregoing some of the even rows of work on the body and arms in order to get the length I wanted. The only place this would be tricky is the yoke-I decided I was more than ok with the dolma style sleeves being a little more dolman-y, or dropped at the armpit. In truth, I prefer this roominess in sweaters, so I knew this would actually be a better fit for me.

For the length of the body, I measured a sweater I own that I wanted to emulate. I wanted the semi-cropped length as it was designed, but I have a shorter torso, so I needed to make allowance for that. The last change I made was in the arms. Firstly, after several attempts, I decided I’d prefer to use double pointed needles than the magic loop method. This is a wholly personal preference; it does not reflect the workability of the pattern at all. I like how mechanical and old school double pointed needles are. Secondly, I shortened the sleeve length to make them more of a three-quarter length. This is intended to be a warm weather piece, wearable for the eight months out of the year that Orange County is…well, warm! The three-quarter length sleeve will be better for me, the wearer, in warmer weather.

The texture of the resulting fabric using Billow is so special. You can see in the above photo, that there are thicker, hearty patches, and thin, open patches that give the whole piece a dynamic and rough-hewn kind of look. I think this texture contrasts beautifully with the polished, classic shape of the garment itself. It offers a balance of elegance and earthiness, and that it at the heart of my style language. In the end, I needed five skeins of Billow to complete the project, but I barely dented the fifth skein. I likely have enough left to make a knit accessory. I might also let my daughter use some of it in her new found passion for looming. The multi-textured yarn would look amazing woven into a wall hanging!

To wrap up for today, I’d love to offer you a little bit of styling inspiration for this piece. I photographed The Grace Pullover with a favorite, nutmeg colored, self drafted linen skirt, a pair of thrifted high waisted, wide leg pants, and the comfiest pair of high waisted, light wash vintage Levi’s. I loved the piece equally paired with each!

I want to extend my gratitude to Denise, who graciously lent her permission to use her beautiful design for this post. You can shop her patterns at her website and find her on Instagram. Thank you to Knit Picks for their yarn support and for championing independent makers and designers.

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