The Pomona Pants

The Anna Allen Pomona Pants were not on my spring make list, but when the pattern was released, I decided to replace the pants I had planned to make and work up a pair of Pomona’s instead. I have made Anna Allen pants before-her designs are clever and her patterns are clean and professional. Lady knows what she’s doing.

I had a moment when making these pants, however, when I had to revisit something I consider a priority: I never, ever want to evaluate my self-worth based on the state of my body. I want to practice body neutrality, and there was a moment during this make when that practice was challenging.

I don’t need to think of myself as beautiful in order to feel valuable. My plainness isn’t something that requires transformation by means of my positive self-perception-plain or lovely, I am still worthy and I still have value.

Even though I believe deeply that this is true, I still fight the impulse to assign value to my features. But my physical features do not determine my value, they just are.

My eyes are assymetircal, and they are green like an unripe acorn, rimmed with dark lashes that sometimes reach to my eyebrows. They allow me to see and cry and express surprise and disgust and delight.

My teeth are askew and mismatched, and sometimes don’t bite well through a slice of onion. When I smile with abandon, there is only one molar still hidden.

My legs are long and lean and very pale and sometimes dimpled.

My hair is unpredictable and wavy. When I let the air dry it, it’s like looking at old photos of my dad in the seventies.

My face and shoulders and anything facing upward toward the sun are covered in amber freckles. I’ll say honestly, I actually love my freckles and always have-I give myself permission to celebrate them.

My waist is wide and sturdy, no matter my size. This can make pants a tricky thing to fit properly, and it’s this one feature that has been the hardest thing for me to be neutral about. Most of the time, I’m there. Sometimes, I’m not.

Details

Pattern: Pomona Pants by Anna Allen

Fabric: Robert Kaufman Essex Linen Blend in Olive

Size: I chose a size 10, body measurements being 30” waist and 40” hips, which are my measurements almost exactly. More notes on sizing will follow…

Making Memo

Based on the body measurements given in the pattern, I chose to make a size 10. I have a 30” waist; for most ready to wear pants, this would put me in a US size 6 or 8, but a size 8 typically doesn't typically fit the rest of my lower half well at all, so I have to choose the cut of pants carefully in order to accommodate for this. I don’t mean to accommodate for a flattering cut, I literally mean to accommodate for my measurements. So, when choosing what size to make in pants, I usually choose based on the suggested waist measurement.

The pattern itself was impeccable, as I honestly expected it to be. The construction allows each pant leg to be cut in one piece without a side seam, which simplifies the whole make process. It also does not require a seperate waistband, as the waistband allowance is built into the pants panels. I loved how many fewer steps there were to this make because of this feature.

Upon nearly completing the size 10 pants (I didn't make a muslin, take a moment to tsk-tsk me if you must), I threaded the elastic, tacked it in place, and gave them a quick try before doing the finishing work. I was not happy. They were oversized in a way that made me feel a little sloppy, and not comfortable in my own skin. They were oversized in a way that made my wide waist feel wider, and I struggled with that neutrality that is so important to me. I knew instantly that I could have sized down, as the waist of the pants is elastic. I could have achieved a more hip skimming fit and still get a good fit in the waist because of the miracle of a wide, elastic waistband! Moral of the story: body neutrality can be hard, but it’s worth it, and elastic waist pants are amazing.

I unpicked the waist, added two darts at the back waist, taking it in a total of about 3”, then I refolded and sewed the elastic pocket and re-threaded the elastic. When I tried them on again, I could not believe how much better I felt! The pants now replicated my natural shape better.

Had I made a muslin first (I know, tsk-tsk), I certainly would have realized that I should have sized down at least one size before having to go through my negative self-talk. As it is, my quick fix ended up working beautifully. With the addition of the two front patch pockets I feel comfortable and wonderful in this pattern

Reflection

I highly recommend The Pomona pants. I think it would be a perfect pants pattern to try for someone whose never made pants before. I can say with confidence that the instructions and visuals are clear for a beginner, because Anna Allen is the designer of the first pants pattern I ever tried, The Persephone Pants, which are much more complicated and were still very accessible to a beginner. She also offers several versatile views and these pants would work well in a wide variety of fabrics, as she demonstrates with her samples. Well done, Anna!