The Demeter Dress

I used to have this tiny scrap of purple velvet. My friend Catherine had given it to me, and I tucked it under the pencils in my Sanrio pencil box. Back in fifth grade, we would tear off the locking tab on the plastic boxes and adhere velcro discs to the clasps so we could keep them closed without having to lock them. Which bubble headed, uber-cute character you chose somehow felt important to your own personal character. Never having been a Hello Kitty myself, I almost always opted for the less popular Keroppi, a bug eyed frog in overalls and a striped tee shirt. I’m sure I thought this said something about my personality, casting myself as the less high maintenance, less spotlit friend.

Inside the Keroppi pencil box, under the array of bite-marked pencils and pristine, cherished erasers was this little scrap of purple velvet. Catherine had given it to me with earnest instructions not to tell any of our other friends, lest they become envious and angry (she was a My Melody, I’m sure). I hid the piece of fabric, taking it out to examine it’s soft surface and rich color only occasionally. I’m still perplexed as to what it actually meant to me, other than thinking it was very beautiful.

Purple is a color I’ve always been attracted to, but never really thought I could wear myself. I was the kind of strange-ish froggy friend, after all, not the poised and feminine one. Purple seemed to require a kind of bravado and self-confidence and womanliness I never identified myself as possessing. It is uncanny how those childish self-concepts tend to hang on. What I have discovered recently, however, is that I can wear purple and I love wearing purple, as long as I can find the right tone. Like most other colors I wear, I just needed to find a purple that balanced a cool base with warm overtones, as well as a good portion of grey to neutralize the vibrancy of the color. A queen’s color, but a queen who has decided to put her crown in storage and go camping. This is hard to find, but not impossible.

My third foray into an Anna Allen design, The Demeter Dress, features a fabric in just such a purple, this Robert Kaufman fabric in the color Thistle. The fabric is a very light and airy gauze, but the triple thickness lends it some comforting weight. It has made for a cotton gauze dress breathable enough for summer, but weighty enough for cooler days in the spring and fall. It deserves a pattern that can stand the test of time and passage of seasons, as well.

The Demeter Dress is perfectly suited to the task. I remember so clearly the first time I saw it in Anna’s Instagram feed. The wide, scoop neckline was so elegant, the roomy bodice so effortless and the soft gathers so feminine, it was love at first sight. I waited somewhat patiently for the pattern release, then waited a little more patiently for the right moment to start the project.

The pattern is lovely, with easy to follow, simple instructions. I find Anna’s print at home patterns to be some of the best, as she specifies exactly which pages need to be printed depending on the view you are making. The pattern is also incredibly versatile, including views for the scoop neck dress with set in sleeves, as you see here, a tank dress with more of a boat neck, and a tee shirt and tank top, as well. I am a big fan of patterns with multiple, high utility views. It feels so thrifty!

Details

Pattern: The Demeter Dress by Anna Allen

Fabric: Robert Kaufman Nirvana Triple Gauze in Thistle

Size: I made a size eight, but with the positive ease allowed in this pattern could have made a six for a slightly more tailored look. I wanted a more oversized fit, so the eight was perfect! I typically would wear a US 6 or 8/medium in ready to wear items.

Making Memo

I’ll be honest, set in sleeves scare me. I’ve made patterns with set in sleeves before, but with very mixed results. I have found them very tricky in the past, and I was nervous to try again, especially when I have had my heart set on this dress for such a long time. I really, really didn’t want to mess this up!

The pattern instructions take into account some of the things I have found challenging about set in sleeves in the past. They are hemmed before being attached to the bodice, which mitigates one step I have found challenging in other projects. The pattern is just designed well, too. The sleeves actually just fit well-it makes me think that patterns I’ve tried in the past with set in sleeves just weren't designed that well!

Instead of easing in the cap of the sleeve, I intentionally added two little gathers to give the sleeves a very subtle little puff at the shoulder. I could easily have eased in that seam and had a nice, crisp shoulder, but the triple gauze lent itself easily to the addition of the tiny gathers, and I love that feminine detail.

I didn't make any other adjustments to the pattern. I sewed the darts, waist, and hem as instructed and the fit is lovely.

Reflection

I found the whole experience of making this dress so enjoyable. Working with the fabric was a delight, the pattern was simple, but with enough challenge to push my skills forward, and the resulting garment has a drape and ease of wear that is sure to make it a go-to piece. In fact, I have already worn it four times since making it.

I’ll be at home, wearing purple like a humble queen for the rest of my days! Do you have a color that you’ve shied away from in the past, but now love? I’d love to know what colors have previously been out of your comfort zone, but now feel like home!

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